ELMINA: The Struggle Between Suffering and Healing
by Oyiza Adaba, New York
The main courtyard at Elmina Castle, Ghana. Built by the Dutch in 1482. (Photo:Africa-Related)
A SPECIAL REPORT
Made possible by Meridian Creative Center, Tema
A visit to Elmina Castle, over three hours from Accra, Ghana, evokes strong feelings about our collective connection to the Transatlantic Slave Trade. As the 1992 Pan African Historical Theater Festival declared, “May we never allow such injustice again. We, the living, promise to uphold this.”
In the coastal town of Elmina, the ongoing struggle between reliving a horrific era and healing unfolds daily. Here, the remnants of a painful past clash with the hopeful emergence of transformation. Locals, guides and tourists alike navigate these intricate emotions, confronting the weight of their history while striving to cultivate a future filled with resilience and recovery. This delicate balance begins the journey toward healing that many individuals undergo.
“In everlasting memory of the anguish of our ancestors. May those who died, rest in peace. May those who return find their roots. May humanity never again, perpetuate such injustice against humanity. We, the living vow to uphold this
”
Video by Africa-Related for #El@80
In February 2024, friends and colleagues of the globally recognized sculptor and Emeritus Professor of Art, El Anatsui, came together to celebrate his significant 80th birthday with a tour of the Elmina Slave Castle. This historical UNESCO World Heritage site is located in the picturesque town of Elmina, which lies approximately a three-hour drive from Ghana's vibrant capital, Accra.
According to Wikipedia, the castle was the very first trading post established on the Gulf of Guinea by the Portuguese back in 1482, originally called Castelo de São Jorge da Mina, but also known simply as Castelo da Mina or Mina, in what is now present-day Elmina, Ghana, which was formerly known as the Gold Coast.
Journalist/Filmmaker Oyiza Adaba at Elmina Slave Castle, Ghana (Photo by Africa-Related)
I have yet to encounter anyone who did not experience strong emotions following an Elmina tour, and this occasion was no different. Not everyone feels at ease when it comes to listening to accounts from what can only be described as a "barbaric" era, one that was paradoxically executed with The Bible in one hand and The Gun in the other, where chapels were ominously built directly above the grim chambers of torture.
Film director Katrina C. Browne thoughtfully tackles this complex subject concerning the church’s role in the Transatlantic Slave trade in her compelling film, Repairing The Breach: The Episcopal Church and Slavery Atonement. This documentary not only examines historical injustices but also seeks a deeper understanding of the implications of these actions within the context of today’s society.
Tour guide at the infamous Door of No Return. (Africa-Related)
There is no doubt that the subject of slavery continues to be a challenging one to confront, affecting all levels of society and individuals from every race that participated. During the poignant tour, the small group, comprised of academics, artists, enthusiastic entrepreneurs, and members of the media, struggled just as deeply with the history and emotions evoked by the experience.
Slavery Theme in El Anatsui’s Works
As an artist who single-handedly redefined comtmporary sculptor, El Anatsui uses bottle caps in his jaw dropping sculptures to highlight the history of alcoholic drinks tied to the European slave trade. His earlier works in wood and ceramics, along with his bottle cap pieces, reflect themes of slavery and the effects of globalization and consumerism in Africa. Some notable titles that evoke strong imagery and deep reflection on these historical realities and contemporary issues, include: Man Resplendent Pissing Around the World (1995), They Saw Us Through Puffs of Smoke; They Made It Happen, Watched It Happen, But Now With Disheveled Hair, Wonder What Happened (1986), and The Elements Threatened Immediately Above While We Still Milled Around in a Mass of Complacency'; Rising Sea (2019).
Additional Reading:
- A History of Indigenous Slavery in Ghana from the 15th to the 19th Century by Akosua Adoma Perbi
- A Cry & the Lamentations from the Ancestors: A Chronicle from the Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade: (Voices from the Captive Africans)
The various contrasts that Elmina presents to us is certainly not lost on our awareness and understanding. In its sordid history, accompanied by the distinct 'smell you never forget'‘, lies a magnificent, imposing beauty that serves to keep the memory of the past alive, thereby ensuring that history does not repeat itself ever again.
The whitewashed walls of this remarkable place hold significant historical dirt that tells a story of resilience and survival, yet Elmina has also become a hauntingly beautiful backdrop for an array of films, captivating books, and striking photo shoots. Renowned writer and historian Prof. Christopher L. Richards used Elimna as the cover of his book Cosmopolitanism and Women’s Fashion in Ghana History, Artistry and Nationalist Inspirations. He worked with the creative duo of photographer, Dean Zulich and Fashion Curator Beatrice ‘Bee’ Arthur, who recount their unique Elmina experiences on TV Series Messengers, all while diligently capturing the rich history and tapestry of Ghanaian fashion.
Cosmopolitanism and Women’s Fashion in Ghana
#El@80 elmina tour: PHOTOS BY AFRICA-RELATED
This report was made possible by Meridian Creative Center, Tema with additional images provided by elanatsuifilm.com, elanatsui.art, #el@80, Timothy Doh, Dean Zulich, and Moses Adeyemi.